Tuesday 28 June 2011

Getting around in Juba

I held on tight as the motorbike bounced along the dirt road, it was clear the driver didn’t know where he was going. My destination wasn’t on any of the bus routes so I was taking Juba’s other form of transport, the boda-boda. Supposedly boda-bodas originate from the Kenya-Uganda border where they carried passengers across shouting “border, border”. These originals were bicycles made to carry a passenger on the back, a motorised version quickly appeared and it’s these that have become Juba’s own form of taxi service.

After a couple of stops for the driver to ask for directions I reached the Tong Ping Business Centre and saw the sign I was looking for. The trip cost me ten Sudanese pounds ($3) – I should have agreed a price before hand, I did this on the way back and only paid seven. My final destination was another couple of hundred yards away, but I was relieved to have found the place at all.

I walked up to the gate and knocked. Every compound has security guards and a gate, often locked even during the day. I was let in by the uniformed guard and asked to sign a guest book. Security is an important industry here. There are large advertisements for security providers displayed prominently in busy places, although they don’t quite match the aggressive advertising of the cell phone companies. Some hotels promote themselves by naming the professional security company they use. For veterans it can provide a good employment opportunity, but it isn’t without its risks. The other day we heard that the local school was broken into, the security guard was struck in the head – he was lucky to have survived the attack. After my short meeting another guard helped me find a boda-boda to take me home.

The return trip took a route along main roads. It was less bumpy but navigating the fast moving traffic of the paved streets made the journey just as much of an experience. Traffic here can be hazardous. I’ve yet to see an accident, but I would be surprised if they aren’t quite common. Crossing the street is enough of a danger. There are no street lights or designated crossings that I’m aware of. Along the paved roads is an almost constant stream of traffic. Most cars are large vehicles, four by fours that are able to get around Juba’s predominantly dirt roads. There are a number of smaller cars, but after a heavy rain these are often limited in where they can go. Motorbikes abound. There are dozens of them and they weave in and out of traffic. I hardly notice the constant honking anymore.

And then of course there are the buses. These white minivans pack in a dozen passengers or more and on any main street you’d hardly have to wait a minute to see one. Finding one that isn’t full and is going where you want might take a little longer, but I’ve never had a long wait. At one pound a trip the bus is a lot cheaper than the boda-boda or a private car (the only car hire price I’ve seen was $100 a day with driver).

Getting around in Juba isn’t always easy for a visitor, but the transport systems exist. It’s all a matter of knowing how to use them.

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